The Torres de Serranos, or Serranos Towers, stand as one of Valencia’s most iconic symbols. Located in front of el Río—the Turia Gardens—these towers rise imposingly, guarding the city’s northern flank.
Its origins and construction
The Torres de Serranos, built between 1392 and 1398 under the direction of master Pere Balaguer, were part of the new city walls defending Christian Valencia. These walls were significantly larger than the previous Muslim fortifications, and their construction began in 1356 in response to the imminent War of the Two Pedros (1356–1366), between Pedro IV of Aragon, known as ‘the Ceremonious,’ and Pedro I of Castile, called ‘the Cruel.’
After the war ended and external threats subsided, the walls—which had been hastily built—were reformed. New gates were added to reflect Valencia’s power and prestige. These new gates, known as the Torres de Serranos, were named for their location at the entrance from the Serranos region, connecting to Zaragoza. The towers were built in Gothic style with flamboyant decoration, though they also show a notable Italian influence, reminiscent of the gates in Rome’s Aurelian Wall.
Defensive design and civic power
The towers, with their fortress-like appearance, offered a unique structure in the city, which had no other fortifications of this scale. Controlling this gateway was vital for dominating the city, so the design included large open interior spaces. These openings allowed inhabitants to launch projectiles from inside if the towers were occupied by enemy forces, preventing the gates from being used as a base for an external attack. This design also made it difficult for internal enemies, such as rebellious nobles, to seize control of the gates. Thus, the Torres de Serranos reinforced Valencia’s civil authority in a medieval city governed by the local patriciate.
Over their more than 600-year history, the Torres de Serranos have had multiple functions. Their main use was as a city entrance and checkpoint. From this function comes one of the region’s best-known expressions: ‘to stay under Valencia’s moon.’ This phrase, referring to distraction or delay, may have originated here. When all city gates closed at 10 PM, those arriving late had to wait until the next day, sleeping outdoors, literally ‘under Valencia’s moon,’ for the gates to reopen.
The towers as the city's prison
From the 15th century onwards, the Torres de Serranos also played a symbolic role, serving as a backdrop for the entrance of important figures into Valencia. They were decorated for the triumphant arrivals of Aragonese kings such as Juan II or Fernando the Catholic, Habsburg kings Carlos V and Felipe II, and religious figures like Pope Luna or Saint Vicent Ferrer. However, after a fire broke out in the dungeons of the old city hall, in 1586 it was decided to use both the Torres de Serranos and the Torres de Quart as prisons, a function they maintained until 1888.
An unusual event took place in 1599, when Valencia hosted the wedding of the future Felipe III to Margarita of Austria. The Torres de Serranos once again served as the backdrop for a triumphant entrance; however, the prince’s arrival was overshadowed by the desperate cries of prisoners, leaving a negative impression on the ceremony, according to contemporary chroniclers. From that time until the 19th century, the Torres de Serranos were not held in high regard by Valencians or visitors.
From prison to city symbol
Ironically, their use as prisons saved the Torres de Serranos and Torres de Quart from demolition when the Christian city walls were torn down in 1865. This decision, made by Governor Cirilo Amorós and supported by much of the population, was justified as it allowed the city to expand and improved hygiene, and, importantly, provided jobs for thousands of unemployed people. Finally, in 1888, the towers ceased to function as prisons, marking a shift in Valencians’ perception, who began to see them as a symbol of the city.
Refuge of art and cultural heritage
During the Spanish Civil War, the Torres de Serranos served one of their most remarkable functions. In response to the intense bombings of Madrid, the Republican government decided to move a large number of paintings from the Prado Museum to Valencia for protection. The Torres de Serranos were chosen as a bunker for this valuable artistic heritage due to their isolated location, moats, and three-meter-thick walls, giving them a fortress-like appearance. The artworks were stored on the ground floor, protected with sacks of rice to cushion potential impacts. For the three years of the conflict, the Torres de Serranos became a fortress for universal artistic heritage, housing works by Velázquez, Rubens, Goya, and others. After the war, the paintings were returned to their original home in Madrid.
Emblematic monument
Today, the Torres de Serranos are Valencia’s most iconic monument. Few cities in the world can boast gates so ancient, imposing, and majestic. Their location in front of the old Turia Riverbed provides wide visual space, allowing the structure to be admired from every angle. What we see today is actually the result of a partial restoration carried out by the Royal Academy of San Carlos between 1893 and 1914, which enhanced the monument’s beauty.
Moreover, the Torres de Serranos have regained their symbolic function as a triumphal arch. During the Cridà, the event that marks the beginning of Fallas on the last Sunday of February, thousands gather around the towers, which serve as a majestic backdrop for the platform where the Falleras Mayores officially proclaim the start of the festivities. Without a doubt, it is one of the most versatile monuments in the world.
How to get there
The Torres de Serranos are located in the heart of the historic center, so the easiest way to reach them is on foot via Serranos Street, which connects with Plaza de la Virgen, one of the main hubs of Ciutat Vella. Being at the edge of the historic center, facing the Turia Gardens, it is also possible to get there by bus, with lines 28, 95, and C1—the latter following a route around the old town. You can also go by car, but only to enjoy a panoramic view, as parking in the area is difficult.
